A Different Kind of Holiday

Tucked within the eastern border of the Cairngorms National Park lies Glen Tanar, a sprawling estate that extends over 25,000 acres. Marked with only a small sign and old brick pillars, the entrance for Glen Tanar Estates is inconspicuous. Turn down the single lane road and you’ll find yourself driving through an ancient forest for what seems like ages, enchanted by the surrounding flora, before reaching the equestrian centre.

Though Scotland is often known for its highlands and coastlines, Glen Tanar carries its own magic. Combined with two additional nearby glens, it comprises the third largest area of Caledonian Forest—the name given to the former temperate rainforest—in Scotland. Its Scots pines have witnessed nine thousand years of history, towering up over the valley floor while the forest’s understory is covered in the ornate, delicate details of heather and feather moss and a variety of thick shrubs, ferns, and grasses.

As you head north from the likes of Edinburgh and St. Andrews, about halfway through the journey you’ll leave the highway behind, as well as reliable GPS service. The tradeoff is worth it, with 360-degrees of spectacular scenery as far as the eye can see—from quaint Scottish villages, lush hillsides, and dense, mossy forests that line the twisting roadway. The adventurous highway B974 is highlighted by Cairn O’ Mount, a high mountain pass 1,493 feet above sea level. Views of the surrounding countryside can extend to the North Sea, or, depending on the day, to two feet in front of you, courtesy of a thick cloud cover.

Arriving at the equestrian centre—which still sits in the footprint of the estate’s original stable block—you’ll be greeted by an emerald green landscape that contrasts the worn gray stone structures. Gazing up at the gentle slopes of the hillside, you’ll see horses and cows roam among the aged buildings in the fields and wonder what century you’re really in.

The late July weather is idyllic in Scotland—70 degrees, partly cloudy, and, if you’re really lucky, rain-free. Making your way into the office, you’ll find the young women who both ride at the equestrian centre and help organize the daily voyages. The treks cater to guests of all ages and experience levels, anywhere from an hour to a whole-day ride. For those packing lightly, helmets and paddock boots are provided.

Even in the height of tourism season, a morning weekday ride consists of a small group of riders two guides. The horses are mainly cobs of different sorts, each paired with their guests based on experience. A traditional two-hour ride will take you through the river and woods up into the hills to enjoy the spectacular views of the glen and surrounding hillside. The terrain varies, from groomed dirt corridors to rocky, muddy paths through the forest, open meadows, and paved yet traffic-free roads.

If it is peacefulness that you seek, that is what you’ll receive. This is not an educational tour so much as a serene trek through enchanting woodlands, where you’ll be accompanied simply by the sounds of clip-clopping hooves and babbling water. The silence only breaks for stretches of trot and canter.

The adventure begins with an ascent up a ridge where you’ll overlook the rolling pasture fields before becoming enveloped by the forest. As you meander through the soaring Scots pines, tranquility sets in. The intricate and boldly colored groundcover extends as far as the eye can see. In this moment, it becomes apparent that no photo will do the forest’s beauty justice.

Between expanses of woodlands, you’ll meet up with the Water of Tanar periodically, following alongside and crossing over it at multiple places via marvelous old stone bridges. Moving away from the forest, you’ll reach open moorlands, encountering a relaxing herd of cows perched next to St. Lesmo’s Chapel along the way. Finally, you’ll ford the river at a large crossing point where the horses all but dive into the water, stopping for a drink and a quick break before heading back to the stable.

After dismounting and giving a pat to the horses, they are whisked away and it’s time to bid farewell to the equestrian centre. With so much to explore in Scotland, you won’t want to end your day here. There are a number of opportunities to further discover the beauty of Glen Tanar, which is a national nature reserve of Scotland and is also designated as a Site of Special Scientific Interest, a Special Protection Area, and a Special Area of Conservation.

Outside of its rich environmental value, Glen Tanar is also located in Royal Deeside, and is a 30-minute jaunt from Balmoral Castle—and, if you’re up for it, Royal Lochnagar Distillery. As a bonus, scattered about the drive are spectacular sights and delightful shops to stop at along the way. Though tourists flock to the castle, the smaller, surrounding towns pack a ton of charm but are much less crowded.

As you continue on your travels, the opportunities are endless. Travel north to the highlands, east to some of the country’s most underrated beaches, west to the isles, south to the Central Belt, and beyond. Though your ride may be over, your journey is just beginning.

Originally published in Northeast Equestrian Life